Estee Lauder Re-Nutriv Ultimate Lift Age-Correcting Collection: May Skincare Review

Disclaimer:  This was a GWP.

For the month of May I used five products from the Re-Nutriv Ultimate Lift Age-Correcting line by Estee Lauder.  This set was a GWP with any $125 Estee Lauder purchase during the Saks Off Fith Avenue 2016 Beauty spring event. While I haven't been particularly impressed with most of the skincare products I've tried from Estee Lauder, I was curious to see how the rather pricey Re-Nutriv line performs.  Let's dive in.

I've got oily skin and have never really enjoyed using creme cleansers, which I associate more with dry skin. Consequently, I wasn't expecting much from this one, but I was pleasantly surprised.  I used it as a second cleanser after my oil-based first cleanse, and it left my skin clean and soft with no noticeable residue left behind. A full-sized version of the Hydrating Creme Cleanser will set you back $60, but it does have some interesting ingredients:

• Olive Fruit Oil:  contains essential fatty acids, including oleic, palmitic, and linoleic acids. It Phenolic compounds also provide antioxidant benefit. 
• Glycerin: Humectant and moisturizer 
• Safflower Seed Oil: contains about 78% of linoleic acid, which is a principal fatty acid which can not be generated by the body.  Helps skin retain moisture.
• Linoleic Acid: anti-inflammatory,  acne reduction, moisture retention
• Green Tea Leaf Extract: anti-oxidant, helps stimulate microcirculation
• Barley Extract:  contains vitamin C, antioxidants, and minerals and helps improve elasticity of skin
• Squalane: an antioxidant, prevents UV damage and the formation of age spots promotes cell growth and is an antibacterial
• Sage Leaf Powder:  antioxidant and antibacterial
• Wheat Germ Extract:  helps support collagen production

The Re-Nutriv Softening Lotion would be used after cleansing as the toner step, although it is thicker than a traditional toner. It is meant to prepare your skin for the products that come after it, and I forewent using a cotton round to apply and instead used my hands to pat it onto my face. Lots of interesting ingredients in this as well, including gold, which you can see in the soft shimmer of the liquid.

• Acetyl Glucosamine: skin identical/skin repairing, inhibits melanin production
• Yeast Extract: antioxidant, promotes tissue repair and wound healing
• Green Tea Leaf Extract: combats free-radicals and reduces inflammation, helps reduce sun damage.
• Adenosine Phosphate:  cell-communicating ingredient and inflammation modulator.
• Barley Extract: reduces inflammation
• Wheat Germ Extract: skin conditioning agent
• Squalane: an antioxidant, prevents UV damage and the formation of age spots, promotes cell growth and is an antibacterial
• Linoleic Acid: also known as Vitamin F, an omega-6 fatty acid.  Anti-inflammatory, moisturizer, skin softener, and acne-fighter. Helps other active ingredients penetrate the skin barrier.
• Sodium Hyaluronate: attracts and binds water to skin, promotes nutrient absorption and micro-circulation.
• Gold: helps lock in moisture and inhibits the breakdown of elastin, however some people can have an allergic reaction to gold

The softening lotion absorbs quickly and does seem to help other products absorb quickly as well.  This is my favorite of the line, and a full size bottle is $60.  That's more than I want to spend, but I do like it.

On the plus size it lasts quite a while, and I've still got a quarter bottle left of the travel size after a month of use. I could see where the full-sized bottle would last a long time, considering it's 8.4 oz quantity.  Hmm....I could end up talking myself into this with a good GWP to sweeten the deal.

Next in the series is the Re-Nutriv Ultimate Lift Age-Correcting Serum, which is supposed to lift and firm the skin's appearance with 5 times the level of ingredients found in the Re-Nutriv creme.  It has a loooong ingredient list and will set you back a jaw dropping $270.

A little does go a long way, as I found a pea-sized amount was enough to cover my entire face. Could I tell any particular lifting and firming action?  Not really, although the sample size was the smallest of all the products and was only enough for about 2 weeks of use.

• Laminaria Digitata Extract:  also known as Atlantic kelp, and thought to form a protective moisturizing barrier on the skin
• Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract: also known as Goji or wolfberry, with antioxidant and anti-aging properties
• Pearl Powder: stimulates cell regeneration, inhibits melanin formation.
• Algae Extract: antioxidant and anti-inflammatory
• St. Paul's Wort Extract: anti-inflammatory and stimulates wound healing
• Mimosa Tenuiflora Bark Extract: helps regenerate damaged skin and heal wounds

I could keep going, but you get the picture:  lots of really interesting ingredients with some solid research behind them to support their benefits in skin care.  If I was not such a gadfly when it comes to products and money was not an issue, this could be a worthy skincare investment piece.

The Re-Nutriv Ultimate Lift Age-Correcting Eye Creme is billed as a breakthrough fusion of serum and moisturizer, containing over 50 ingredients that are supposed to deliver profound results.  These results include boosting collagen levels to help eye contours look younger, firmer, and redensified, and reducing the appearance of dark circles, puffiness, and crepiness. Sounds like a miracle in a jar, doesn't it? 

I've yet to find an eye cream that can turn back the hands of time, regardless of marketing claims. This is a good eye cream, and it works well with moisturizing my eye area without causing milia or any type of irritation. It is $140 for half an ounce, which means my sample is worth almost $70.  I'd say if you are interested in this eye cream, keep an eye out for another GWP that features it.  I can see the sample lasting for a good 4-5 months of twice daily use, and if I see a marked improvement in my eye area I will update the review.

• Shea Butter: moisturizing and antioxidant properties
• Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract: also known as Japanese Knotwood, which is the primary natural source of resveratrol.  Considered to have a number of beneficial effects, including anti-oxidative, anti-inflammatory, and anti-microbial activity.   
• Boswella Serrata Extract: the source for Indian frankincense, with an anti-inflammatory affect on the skin.  It can also stimulate fibroblasts, which are the cells that make collagen.  Conversely, it may be skin sensitizing for some people.
• Fuscoporia Obliqua Extract: a mushroom that grows on silver birch trees, it has anti-inflammatory and cell regenerating properties

There are lots of other goodies in here, and if nothing else, I'm happy to see that Estee Lauder really is utilizing heavy hitter ingredients in this line.  I do wonder how stable the ingredients are in the jar packaging, but the marketing lingo includes this blurb, which perhaps helps with the stability of the ingredients?

"Includes Life Re-Newing Molecules, the multi-patented infusion that is the secret strength of Re-Nutriv's power to visibly renew skin at any age."

Last up is the Re-Nutriv Ultimate Lift Age-Correcting Creme ($285), which would be the moisturizer to seal in all this goodness. I used it only at night as I prefer gel moisturizers for daytime use with my oily skin, but I was happy with it as a night cream.  It is not too heavy and even has a somewhat matte finish, so I would consider it as a daytime moisturizer during colder weather. It contains many of the ingredients listed above, so I'll highlight some of the other ones below.

• Cucumber Fruit Extract: antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties
• Cladosiphon Okamuranus Extract: found in brown seaweeds and has the ability to regenerate skin cells.  Some studies have found that it has moisturizing effects exceeding that of hyaluronic acid.
• Tourmaline: thought to trigger a warming effect to increase the production of new collagen and the contraction of fibers, which helps restore the springiness of skin.   

Here is what I know:  the products work well together, I experienced no breakouts or skin irritations, and my skin feels soft, moisturized, and healthy.  I don't have major sagging at this point so it's hard for me to evaluate the lifting claims, but my skin does feel plump and firm after using the Re-Nutriv line. The products feature quality ingredients that do have some research to back up the skin care claims, although the price puts them out of reach for the average consumer.  If you want to spend the money, however, I'd say it definitely has it's appeal.

From Uber Affordable to Harder on the Wallet: Skin Toners in My Rotation

Disclaimer:  I purchased these.

Toners.  I've been using toners ever since waaaay back in my teens.  I was a big devotee of the skin tingling Sea Breeze "no other clean feels quite like this" (and dubbed the most skin irritating product EVER created by Paula Begoun) before I graduated to Clinique's more expensive Clarifying Lotion 2. Here's a blast from the past for you:

Now I know it's better to not assault my skin, which no doubt only aggravated an already volatile situation.  I'm not gonna lie though, I do miss the tingle that came from the peppermint, clove, and eucalyptus oils in Sea Breeze's original formula and the menthol in Clinique's 1980's blend.  However, here are my better educated choices for gentle but effective toners for my oily skin, starting with the least expensive and finishing with the most. Let's see if more money = a better formula.

Thayer's alcohol-free Rose Petal Witch Hazel (currently $7.99 at drugstore.com) is a gentle toner that I don't mind dousing my cotton pad with due to it's huge size and low cost. I tend to use it more in the morning than evening, as I find the moisturizing aspects of this nice prior to applying my makeup. Featured ingredients are Thayer's proprietary non-distilled extract from the Witch Hazel shrub, which is supposed to have the highest level of therapeutic tannins.   Interestingly, Witch Hazel not only rids skin of excess oil, it also helps eliminate water loss to improve the hydration of the outer layer of skin.

This version of Thayer's also includes hydrating aloe vera and glycerin along with rose flower water, which has a multitude of skin benefits (you can read more about them here) including healing wounds and soothing sunburns. There are a variety of Thayer's Witch Hazel formula's available, making it very easy to customize for your own skin needs.

Thayer's has been around since 1847, making it the oldest US company in the natural products and health food store industry.  I'm not sure what ingredient in the formula makes it bubble when shaken, but it does :-)

CoxRX's AHA/BHA Clarifying Treatment Toner ($13) is the newest to my rotation and the one that's been seeing the heaviest use in the past few months.  I purchased it as part of the CosRX Memebox (full review here), and it's a standout with it's gentle skin acids in both AHA and BHA formats. It comes in a spray bottle format and I've used it as both a facial spray and by spraying it on a cotton pad and swiping it all over my face. I've already bought a second bottle, so I'm putting my money where my mouth is.

Next is Kate Somerville's Clarifying Skin Treatment Toner ($26), which is a nicely formulated toner with an interesting application cap that took me longer than it should have to figure out how to use.

The top has a concave disk around the opening where you place your cotton pad and then depress, which dispenses the toner into the disk and wets the cotton.  I kept turning it upside down while depressing, wondering why it dripped when I did that and thinking the whole thing was stupid. Until I figured it out, duh.  You will notice witch hazel, glycerin,  and  aloe vera in this formula (just like Thayer's), along with exfoliating Phytic and Lactic Acids. I tend to use this one more in the evenings after dual cleansing and before serums/moisturizers.  My skin likes it.

Ingredients:  Water/Aqua/Eau, Methyl Gluceth-10, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Bark/Leaf/Twig Extract, Phytic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Water, PEG-60 Almond Glycerides, Caprylyl Glycol, Lactic Acid, Panthenol, Glycerin, Aloe Barbadensis Extract, Carbomer, Nordihydroguaiaretic Acid, Oleanolic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Disodium EDTA-Copper, Chlorphenesin 

Last up is luxury brand Le Métier de Beauté's Daily Refresh Tonic ($50), which I received in my July 2014 VIP subscription box and am about to finish up. It's got some unique ingredients, including:

• Hemolymph Extract: absorbs oxygen from environment and delivers it to skin Peppermint, Cinnamon, Thyme and Geranium Oils: mildly stimulate with a gentle warming effect.
• Rosemary: gently cleanses skin
• Cypress Oil: balances the skin with soothing properties
• Anise Oil: provides a cleansing and warming effects on the skin
• Vitamins E, A and B: condition and protect

The distinctive bottle works well with it's pump top and the formula does a good job of cleansing without stripping my skin. I find the price cost prohibitive but I'm glad I got to try it out as part of the VIP subscription service.

I've been using Rite Aid's Premium Square Cotton Pads for both toner and to remove my nail polish, as one side is smooth and lint free. They are not particularly thick but do get the job done.

Of these four toners, I've got to say that the less expensive Thayer's and COSRX versions are my favorites.  I'm just not seeing the point of paying big money for a toner when there are some really good formula's out there at much better price points!

Retrospective Look Back at Le Métier de Beauté VIP Program Plus Daily Refresh Tonic

June's entry for the Le Métier de Beauté VIP program was a full sized bottle of the Daily Refresh Tonic ($50).  I enjoy using toners, especially in the hot weather months, so this was a welcome addition to my growing collection of LMdB products.

The pump top works surprisingly well, and two squirts is plenty to do the job, which according to marketing lingo

"prepares the skin to better receive topical restorative treatments by stimulating circulation, restoring balance to the complexion, as well as conditioning and hydrating. It also re-energizes the skin, creating a freshly-flushed appearance."

It doesn't make my skin feel stripped or dry, and indeed features gentle, non-drying ingredients.  It still manages to pick up traces of dirt and makeup that my regular cleansing routine missed, however, so it's not a lightweight by any means :-)  I've yet to notice any warming effect from the oils mentioned below, nor has it irritated my skin.

Active Ingredients:

• Hemolymph Extract: absorbs oxygen from environment and delivers it to skin Peppermint, Cinnamon, Thyme and Geranium Oils: mildly stimulate with a gentle warming effect.
• Rosemary: gently cleanses skin
• Cypress Oil: balances the skin with soothing properties
• Anise Oil: provides a cleansing and warming effects on the skin
• Vitamins E, A and B: condition and protect

VIP Box 1

July marks the last box of the 2013 VIP subscription program, so I thought I'd do a look back at the products I've received and tally up the value for the year (minus July's box, yet to be received).  If you are on the fence about subscribing for the 2014 VIP program, perhaps this will be helpful.

The first box was pretty spectacular and included a coveted kaleidoscope.  I received the a lip version called Red Rapture, but they varied from face/eye/lip kaleidoscopes.  There were four full sized items (lipstick, eyeliner, kabuki brush, kaleidoscope) in the first box, making for a very nice introduction to the program.  Value was $254.

Box 2

Box 2 was the biggest letdown of the entire program, featuring two cream eyeshadows whose formula left a lot of people scratching their heads.  I could not get these to work for me, although some people reported success.  Box value was $56.

Box 3

Box 3 contained a skincare item, the Peau Vierge Complexion Serum & Dark Spot Corrector.  I finished mine in May, which was about 3 months of usage for the half ounce bottle.  Very nice product, with a value of $125.

Box 4

Box 4 contained 3 items, a lash curler, lash serum, and eye pencil in Tamarack.  I've enjoyed all 3 and use them regularly.  Box value was $149.

Box 5

Box 5 featured a blush kaleidoscope called Cheeky Chic.  I've actually not used this much, and did not fall in love with it as much as I was expecting to.  I've signed up for the Summer Kaleidoscope program, which should contain another blush kaleidoscope, and I'm interested in comparing the formulas.  Value of Box 5 was $95.

Box 6

Box 6 contained a dual action makeup remover, an item that springs up only periodically as a GWP in the LMdB world.  I don't typically use makeup removers like this as I do the two phase oil cleanse followed by a water based cleanser, which effectively removes my makeup.  Value of this box was $32, making it the lowest of the boxes received to date, but still over the $29/month that the subscription price breaks down to.

Box 7

Box 7 brought 3 items, 2 nail polishes and a lipstick.  I'm wearing Cocoa Cabana on my toes right now, although I've yet to try Red Lodge.  Box value was $68.

Box 8

Box 8 contained two impressive items, an eye mask that really worked, and a concealer that I now use every day.  The concealer caused a bit of controversy in LMdB subscription box land, as they had originally said no foundation items would be sent out as the boxes are not customizable.  Which makes sense, because people's complexion tones vary and all.  The concealer in medium worked fine for me, but not for others.  Hence, discontentment ensued.  LMdB is nothing if not customer friendly (IMO), and they've announced that the 2014 program will be customizable, which should cut down on issues like this one.  Box value was $113.75.

Box 9

Box 9 saw the Peau Vierge Anti-Again Pressed Powder in shade 2, further amping up people's angst if the shade didn't match them.  Again, fortunately I lucked out and really like this powder, which receives regular rotation.  Box value was $75.

Box 10

Box 10 featured 2 eyeshadows, both of which I really like.  They look lovely on their own or layered over each other in the LMdB couches de couleur tradition.  Box value was $60.

Minus the final July box, the total value of the 2013 VIP program comes to $1077.75, well over three times the value of the $348 price.  It was tough ponying up that amount upfront, but I've been quite pleased with the overall experience, and have already paid for the 2014 Beauty Vault VIP program.  LMdB has verified that 2014 will not repeat items from 2013, which helped me to make the decision to renew.  The program closes on 7/18 or when all spots are filled, and the first box ships in August.

Eminence Rosehip Tonique

I swore by Sea Breeze when I was in high school.  I loved the tingly feeling it gave my skin and considering I needed to wash my skin several times a day because it was so oily, Sea Breeze may have been just what I needed.  I graduated at some point to using a Clinique toner, and then drifted away from toners in general, I can't remember why.

Eminence's Rosehip tonique, which is supposed to calm sensitive skin and balance oily skin, brought me back into the toner fold.  It contains Rosehip Juice to hydrate and improve the appearance of skin while providing antioxidant protection with vitamin C, and Salicylic Acid to help rid dead cells and smooth skin.  Lemon juice tones while removing surface impurities.  I give my face about 3 sprays after cleansing, wait for it to dry and then proceed with the rest of my routine.  I find the light scent and cooling sensation refreshing, and it does not dry out my skin.  My skin still produces plenty of oil, however, so I'm not sure how to evaluate the "balancing oily skin" claim. 

But what exactly is the purpose of a skin toner?  Is it even necessary?  Some say yes, others not really.  In their brochure, Eminence claims that toners are important to balance the natural pH of your skin (as well as infuse the skin with natural vitamins and minerals), but I've also read that your skin should be able to balance itself out.  If anything, I think the addition of antioxidants to combat environmental stress is probably the greatest benefit.  While these may also be included in your sunscreen or moisturizer, a layering approach may help. 

Eminence's Rosehip Tonique is on the pricier end of the range at $38 for 4 oz.  It comes in a spray bottle, which I like, but I've read some reviews where people indicated they used a cotton ball to apply in order to avoid waste. A bottle lasts me a good 8 months or so, and I use it twice a day.

The main appeal of Eminence to me is that they use fresh, organic fruits, vegetables, and herbs in their products.  They've also been around since 1958 and are certified organic.  All in all, I find their products to be of high quality and therefore worth the price.

Disclaimer:  I purchased this.